Here’s another one of those really lengthy posts. You might want to sit down and grab a cuppa for this one as I wrap my Iconic pieces from form this year’s MBFWJ’S Day 3.
David Tlale is exceptional at what he does. This is a fact put out to no questioning and we have come to always expect the unexpected from his master genius nature. I received the presentation of his FALL 2014 collection as a nudge to remind all followers of his work that in addition to putting on reputable showmanship, his knowledge of garment construction boats a high quality and even when he brings it “back to basics”, it is with a supreme dynamism.
There is a new breed of designer kids on the block and they mean business. As part of the AFI Fastrack accelerator, this year’s finalists were an impressive bunch. Impeccable quality and solid style stories, each one of these top ten industry newbies showcased beautifully curated capsule collections. See pics below for a visual introduction and keep your eyes on this space.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Robynn Deedat’s CRUSTACEAN FEMININITY. Ruth McNaughton’s MILK. Fabian Ah-Sing’s ELLIPSIS. Naazneen Kagee’s MODERN MYSTIC.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Jessica Ross’s IT’S AN AMISH INVASION. Ditiro Mashingo’s SERATI. Benazeer Mulla’s MIND CONTROL
LEFT TO RIGHT: Rich Mnisi’s KOOL-AID. Ellen Kondowe’s MIDAS AFRICA & I. Tuelo Nguyuza’s LE SPORTS CHIC.
Menswear is the current hot buzzword in the fashion circles –about darn time if you ask me. It’s no surprise that the AFI Next Generation collective brought together four potential industry entrepreneurs to showcase their creations made for men-folk. Zano Sithetho’s Skorzch is known for fine tailoring and his vintage 1950s referenced range saw hints of brights for well styled humour. Prudence Mahapang’s PREU was all about minimalism associated with Priesthood throughout history. Great attention to details through layering and texture contrasts. Scalo is no stranger to the spotlight. Headed by the abundantly talented Sello Medupe, this brand has come a pretty long way since debuting at the AFI Fast Track back in 2011 and his return to the runway was partly inspired by the sight of pigeons in flight: a lot of greys, blues whites and hints of blacks in desirable cuts and fits. Jenevieve Lyons’ line of separates where anything but conventional, yet seemed to be wearable, even to a non-full-time-fashioning eye. She sourced inspiration from a sea sponge and resulted with Must Have pieces for a modern-day nomad.
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: SKORCH, PREU, SCALO GENEVIVE LYONS.
Frequenters of fashion weeks will tell you that the most satisfying points of such soirees include the ability to score an entertaining/ showmanship mark as well as communicating with the possible wearer. It only makes sense. Durban based designer sensation; Leigh Schubert did just that and then some. We all know a woman who would look absolutely smashing in her creations. I got a sense of a modern day traveller through the nowhere near exhausted safari-like suggestion. Perfectly cut fabrics with geographic lines in warn colours. The styling commanded the right amount of attention with dyed feather earrings -did somebody say a wink to aviation?
Winning formulae or design mastership should not ever be questioned, altered or even questioned. I became comfortable with this concept after seeing Avant Apparel’s tasteful cape jacket with slit sleeves walked down the ramp this season. A definite design piece which can fit comfortably in a working class individual’s day-to-day wardrobe as it could when styled into an eccentric personality’s threads.
It is not every day that parts of me numb over items of clothing –mostly because I work very hard at freezing my exclamations and wait until the light dim down before I totally embarrass myself on the FROW. The not-so-cropped cropped leather blazer with double-breast buttons and peaking hemlines by AUGUSTINE made my usually stern stare way too difficult and surpassed what I thought to expect from the menswear label. It is a PERFECT piece and I am not even exaggerating when I say that I have not stopped thinking about it ever since that fateful moment!
I’ve never wanted anything to be named after me this bad! #TrueStory
Ruald Rheeder has become something of a genius as far as pomp ‘n ceremony is concerned, there is nothing boring about the Cape Town based label and this season I cheerfully shimmied like an uninvited guest at a wedding as I appreciated their unmatched talent of using crazy amounts of texture in one solid colour –black. I thought it was an outlandish whiplash to traditionalists and I liked it.
Gone are the ideas that “a suit will always be a suit”. I come from a nation of those who aim to find unique bits of every piece of clothing and I got served when Viyella showcased the olive green suit which seems to pay homage to an ageless utility trend in a roomier cut sans looking costume. There is nothing “average” in these parts.
Fabiani is such an institution. I am a huge fan of the brand and everything it stands for because in addition to noticeably introducing trends, it is exactly what men want to wear. Ending #MBFWJ2014; the autumn/ winter 2014 collection is an ode to the updated man about town. As much as I adored the focus on outerwear, it’s the accessories that stole my heart; from the pale pink rose boutonnière worn with bright pocket squares and red socks.
Read my other review about details on the third day of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Jo’burg 2014 for MBLIFE.CO.ZA over HERE
PICS BY SDR Photos.